The best things to do in Edinburgh

There’s no better way to start a new year than a short trip to a new city. I began this one in Edinburgh with my mom — the ideal size for a couple of days.

Fly in and catch the bus, or take the train — about three hours for us — straight into Waverley on Princes Street, which is the best place to start.

Old Town & Princes Street

Edinburgh Castle on its rock above the gardens

Princes Street

Princes Street Gardens

Shops on one side, gardens on the other, under the castle on Castle Rock. Blossom in spring, Christmas markets in winter, and the restored Ross Fountain lit up at night. The Scottish National Gallery next door is free.

Looking up at the castle walls from the esplanade

Royal Mile

Edinburgh Castle

A gentle walk up the Royal Mile past the souvenir shops. Book castle tickets in advance — it’s cheaper.

The white iron galleries and glass roof of the museum’s grand hall

Chambers Street · Free

National Museum of Scotland

A breathtaking glass-roofed hall and hours of exhibitions — then the lift to the rooftop for a new angle on the castle.

Victoria Street & Grassmarket

A short walk from the castle, Victoria Street is Edinburgh’s most beautiful street — colourful, independent, and the main inspiration for Diagon Alley. It leads down to Grassmarket, full of little shops and places to eat.

Hot pork

Oink

A hearty, tasty bap on Victoria Street.

Healthy

Hula Juice Bar

Just down the hill if you don’t eat meat.

Breakfast

Auld Jock’s Pie Shoppe

A full Scottish where I tried haggis for the first time — and liked it.

Ice cream

Mary’s Milk Bar

Some of the best ice cream, with a castle view.

Vintage

Armstrong Vintage

A whole wall of Aran jumpers; I came away with three cashmere ones.

Edinburgh’s spires and rooftops seen from above — The city from above — the reason to climb a hill or two.

The best viewpoints

Short walk from Princes Street

Calton Hill

My favourite. Go at sunset, when the light runs down Princes Street — and take the leisurely path for steady hands.

The Balmoral clock tower framed by autumn leaves

Holyrood Park

Arthur’s Seat

A tough climb in good boots, but the whole city, the sea and the mountains are worth it. Pack a sandwich and warm layers.

Gardens & Dean Village

Free · Glasshouses £6.30

Royal Botanic Garden

70 acres, over 100,000 plants and 10 glasshouses that steam up your camera. Don’t miss the 165-metre beech hedge, planted in 1906.

Water of Leith

Dean Village

Walk back along the river past St Bernard’s Well to a pocket of calm, trapped in time — five minutes from Princes Street.

Further out

By bus

Edinburgh Zoo

Worth it if you have time.