In South Wales, the Brecon Beacons is home to a breathtaking mountain range with the tallest peak in the south — and so many waterfalls that one corner is simply called Waterfall Country.
It was one of Britain’s first National Parks in 1957, and it’s easy to reach by car, which makes it perfect for a quick weekend getaway. Here’s where I went, where I ate, and what to pack.
Where to go
Pont ar Daf
Pen y Fan
The tallest mountain in South Wales at 886 metres, just 3km from the car park — or loop all four peaks.
Pant Station
The mountain railway
A steam train through woodland, past a quarry and the Pontsticill Reservoir, with a stop at the Lakeside Cafe on the way back.
Waterfall Country
Waterfall Country
Follow the path downstream from the car park. I stopped counting at 12 waterfalls — and there’s no phone signal.
The route
The four peaks from Pont ar Daf
Start
Pont ar Daf car park
Summit
Pen y Fan, 886m
To the top
About 3km
Route
Circular, four peaks
- Corn Du The first summit on the way up from Pont ar Daf.
- Pen y Fan The highest point in South Wales.
- Cribyn Down and up again along the ridge.
- Fan y Big The fourth peak before looping back.
The climb is sheltered, but the top is completely open to the elements. It was a sunny mid-20s day at the base — and gale-force winds at the summit. Bring a windproof and layers.
Walk behind a waterfall
Henrhyd Falls is the highest in the Brecon Beacons, with a 27-metre drop. A steep woodland path and a wooden bridge take about 20 minutes to the base — and if you’re careful underfoot, you can walk behind the fall. It reminds me of Iceland.
Pack waterproofs: the spray soaks you if you spend long behind it.
Where to eat
Sunday roast
Penycae Inn
A short drive from the main sights, with a divine Sunday roast — book ahead. Out the back is their own free zoo, with meerkats, Japanese cranes and wallabies.
Self-catering
Cook at the Airbnb
Our place had a kitchen, so most meals were home-cooked — cheaper, and easier after a long day outside.
Good to know
What to pack
- Walking boots Proper boots prevent twisted ankles — a decent pair can cost as little as £30. My Hi-Tec boots have lasted four years.
- Layers Even in high summer the wind chill on the peaks is bitter. Layers let you regulate your temperature.
- Camera and spare batteries Cold weather drains them quickly.
- Food and drink Snacks and water to keep your energy up on the hills.
- A battery bank For navigation when the cold drains your phone.
- Offline and paper maps Download an offline Google Map over Wi-Fi before you go, and keep a road map in the car.
Where to stay
Base
Near the Black Mountains
A great view to wake up to, with easy road links to the whole area.
More Wales
North Wales & Anglesey
If you’re planning more trips, a day in North Wales and the ultimate guide to Anglesey.
A note on this guide This guide includes affiliate links for products mentioned. I only recommend kit I use.
